Crazy Englishman / Verrückte Engländer, 1000 miles on a 1958 SR2!

Tom, excuse, the thing with professions was a joke. Don`t worry.

At first: yeah, if I give an input "Abriß" into google translator (I don`t use it) I get "demolision". Its correct! If I would kill a house down to earth (in example), this is in german a "Abriss" in english a "demolition". Damaged and ready.
But....the word "Abriss" in german has two signs: Demolition (in example a house) or...(I need an example. I Have it: You can from a newspaper a llitle piece "abreissen", cut off. This is the verb from "Abriss") tear off. Its better? We speak about magnetically tear off? (Tear is in german "Träne"...tears on my pillow... )

You have completely understand the Abriss-problem. In this time must open the breaker. How many the braker is max. open, its not intresting. The time and the magnetic "tear off" must be the same and of course the time of ignition (2,5mm befor upper death point). This tree important things you must fix! Than you can drive and have better light than (or like? ) the moon.
My english is so small like me...

Tonight I did some trial and error of adjusting the base plate position and the points gap with no luck. I disconnected the wiring loom and still no luck. I also tried swapping the points (unterbrecher) over for my new set but realised that the new ones did not come with a spindle for them to pivot. Is this normal? This pivot piece seems to be fixed to the old points so I couldn't reuse this part. Looking at the photo in the shop, this part is not included.



Anyway, I realised that another part I hadn't fitted was my new spark plug. The old one looked pretty new so I hadn't bothered. Comparing the old one to the new one, they were slightly different. I put the new one in and it fired up straight away. I drove it for about 10 minutes with no cutting out! I still had the wiring loom disconnected so I had to ride it with my little magnetic torch stuck to the front.

No cutting out until I turned on the lights. I put my new bulbs in and the rear one blew instantly again. The front one was as bright as the sun for a few seconds until the engine cut out. It seems like the lighting is drawing a massive amount of current. So much so that's not suprising that the engine is cutting out. Any idea why this would be? Not the dreaded Abriß I hope!

Of course, you´re right it is the problem "Abriss"!

A picture says more than 1000 words.

That means " magnetischer Abriss " (magnetic demolition):


Angefügtes Bild

Thanks folks. I understand the term now.

I have devised a plan for measuring this distance and setting up my timing reasonably accurately. I'm waiting for a few tools to be delivered and then I will update with my progress and the technique.

"Tear" in English is a confusing one. It's two completely different words that are spelt identically. Silly language. As you say, one meaning is the water from your eyes when you cry. The other means to rip, like cutting paper by pulling it apart with your fingers. This is the definition that would make sense here.

o.k. tear is clearing.

Mark one thing: You must have all of the two lamps on working. If you have only one of this, the voltage goes high an than the other is also damage! Its the same circuit.Its important to know!
Do not drive with damaged rearlight!
I`m shure, you will clear and fix your electrically problem. Its a question of time...

I had better stock up on bulbs then!

Hmm.

I now have a dial test indicator and stand for measuring the timing position. I removed the spark plug, set up the indicator and then turned the flywheel clockwise until the piston was at the top of its stoke. From here, I turned the flywheel anticlockwise until the dial indicator read -2.5mm. I made a mark on the flywheel and the case to show this exact position. When these lines meet, this is when the engine should fire. There is a fixed and direct correlation between the flywheel position and the piston position.

Now, shining a torch inside of the flywheel shows the Abriss measurement to be approx 6-8mm when the baseplate is rotated clockwise as far as it will go. I.e. there is no more adjustment for reducing the Abriss distance. Am I doing something wrong?

Is it a rebuild breaker, if it is so you´re right. You have to rasp the plastic nose until it fits.
But before try to check if it works.

Der Tim

As far as I am aware, it's the original breaker... but regardless of when it actually fires, it seems like the optimum firing position (2.5mm BTDC) can never occur with the correct Abriss. Unless perhaps I considerably elongate the slots where the baseplate is mounted and then worry about the effect this has on the position of the breaker later.

I don´t think that you have an original breaker but if it works it doesn´t matter.

Der Tim

The breaker hasn't come into it yet. It might be a problem but it can't be the cause of this problem. The problem I have is there even without the breaker fitted.

The problem is that when the piston is 2.5mm before the top of it's stroke (this is when the breaker should make it's spark), the Abriss measurement is too great.

My opinion: Fuck the "Abriß" and don't go crazy!
When the breaker opening in the right moment (2,5 mm before the piston is top), a strong blue spark is coming and your Motor turns, everything is o.k.
Try it and go on.
I never looked to the "Abriß" and everytime it worked fine.

Hi Crazy Englishman,
What's going on with your "Essi"? Please give the news.
Is the engine turning high now?