Crazy Englishman / Verrückte Engländer, 1000 miles on a 1958 SR2!

May be, however.

In german is "Kondensator" the same name for two different things and I guess, in english condenser and capacitor it's different too.
The first (condenser) is part of a steam-engine, a thermodynamic glass-flask in a chemical laboratory or other similar and the other (capacitor) is an electrical component.

So how do I fix this Abriss problem?

May be, however.

In german is "Kondensator" the same name for two different things and I guess, in english condenser and capacitor it's different too.
The first (condenser) is part of a steam-engine, a thermodynamic glass-flask in a chemical laboratory or other similar and the other (capacitor) is an electrical component.

"Condensor" is also definitely an electrical item. I am fimilar with the term for VW Beetle ignitions. The condensor is used on the distributor to discharge excess current. On a Beetle it looks like this:

http://www.justkampers.com/shop/media/cata.../i/m/J10197.jpg

Tom, here is the link to "Abriss" (or "Abriß"). In my mean is a try to translate this word "magnetically cut off".

You must try to translate the content and look at the pictures.

https://www.ddrmoped.de/forum/index.php?showtopic=7323&hl=

Hi, Tom, and everyone here. I am Martin, from Bulgaria, and I have SR 2E 1964. I need time to get it back to life, but when i have opportunity to it. I like the shape, the engine, everything in this german machine. Maybe I'll write in different theme, probably I'll need some help

The reason to write here is a trip of one canadian. He drove 18,660 km for one summer. I know, the moped is different (mobilette) but there must be some interesting and useful information. Moreover he meets hills, carries alone his luggage and drives alone hours on empty roads. So its an adventure.

Tom, if you think it could be useful to you, this is where you can read about it: www.mopedtrip.com

Hi Martin from Bulgaria. I`m very glad, to have any international Simson-bikers in in the forum. And of course: Write your problems and I`m shure, we can help you.

Tom, I´m sittin down here in early weekend and had haved a look at this site with the tour from scottland down. And I`m thinking. It is a very nice adventure. I`m at myself haved any tours in german and chech with the bike. Scottland and old british empire never haved.

I`m understanding this trip so: Everybody can drive. You must have a bike 50cccm and a driving license (shit, my licence is from eastgermany from 1574 ). Everybody must pay the rising-cost for himself. Sleeping overnight are organized? Must I have my bed and pillow on my backside?
The next problem: travel on left side. I was with my car in the near of London in 2006. A french car with the important wheel inside on left side. Into the first circle in england...my brain was overload. Nothing of way to come out... I needed 2 rounds to find a way out. Its a really problem for me as a european! look at the picture.
But I have this tour in the backside of my brain.

Angefügtes Bild

Thanks, I will try to translate and make sense of this Abriss issue.

Hi Martin, I happen to have already read that man's story. It's very inspiring! That man was also a very good cyclist so I suspect he was a lot fitter than me!

Norbert, are you considering joining in for the ride?! You have to get yourself and the bike to North Scotland. There are a load of volunteers that will carry the luggage, set up the camp sites and cook for everyone. The camping is at booked places and all people participating must pay for their own fuel and towards the food.

Driving on the left with a left hand drive car is not too bad. I've done every combination and after a few minutes of trying to change gear with the window winder, it's all ok.

Has anybody heard from Tobias lately? I put an order in Wednesday but I haven't heard anything about payment. I know it hasn't been long, but I really want to get my SR2 running!

I still can't get hold of Tobias regarding an order through the shop. Is he on the forum? I can't get my SR2 running properly without the parts. My first order was so quick too!

I drove sum. 25.000k on the wrong site. No worrys. The real problem came in Germany to think back.

Anyway. I like the idea of the trip. Is there a real website somewhere with all the faccts and dates? (exept for Toms signature)

greets Hagen

[EDIT]: Sorry, i found the button

Update: My latest order from the DDR Moped shop arrived yesterday morning!

So today I set about fitting some parts to try to make my Simson run properly. I used my new flywheel tool to enable me to fit the new condensor. Put it all back together... it still cuts out. So I took it apart again and fitted the new ignition coil, put it back together... and it still cuts out. Fitted my new HT lead and plug cap... and it still cuts out. It's still loosing all spark after a short while. The only thing left that I can think it might be is the points (contacts). I will try this tomorrow if I can find the time (and the light).

I have a couple of questions about the timing. The flywheel and the engine case have alignment marks on them. Are these at TDC or 2.5mm BTDC? Also, should the timing be set so that these marks line up at the very moment that the contacts open?

I have a 12v timing gun in the garage. I might see if I can make it work on the 6v system.

Tom, when I read your content... You have any important parts new. It must work!
One thing you must look: May be, you have a wrong contact to the frame. Not always. The engine cuts off, when the pin Nr. 2 (the left) on ground plate have contact to the frame. Try it: Take (the engine is running) a screwdriver and make a brigde between Nr2 and the enginehouse. The engine will stopp.

The reason why for this not always wrong contact can be the switch in the lamp or only a cable. Look also to the cables on groundplate!

Another test: drive the moped without of the 2 kabels on groundplate. You don`t have a light and also you can`t switch off the engine. But it must running.
If on this configuration the engine stopps again, the failure is on the groundplate.

In orginal the engine don`t have a alignment mark. A gay haved mark this later but its not the best. This point is changin every time in example when you change the contact.
The correct time is 2,5mm befor upper dead point. Then the switch on groundplate must begin to open. A little bit. This is the time for magnetically cut off! The max Opening is 0,4mm

I use for the ignition time setup a ignition clock.

Thanks Norbert. I will try removing both of the baseplate wires and see if it runs. It will be dark by the time I get home from work tonight so I shall have to ride it with a head torch on!

I know there are problems with the wiring as the rear light doesn't work (a new bulb blew instantly) and the front light only has one setting. Maybe it's no coincidence. Maybe the engine cutting out when I switch the lights on is part of this same problem too rather than the Abriss problem.

Tom, the "Abriß"-problem is easy to understand. The circumstance is the one and only flywheel for all: ignition and light. You can have a deal with the flywheel ignition or light. Together it works only with correct magnetically Cut-off=Abriß.
You must have a look to inside of the wheel. You see 6 magnetics with 12 pols and space between. And than have a look at the coils. They have two pols right and left. The distance of this two pols are the same as the magnetics into the wheel.
The magnetically cut off is exactly in this point, when the coil-pol lose the wheel-pol. Or otherwise. Not exactly: 0-3mm! Better more 0 till 3mm! Than must open the contact at the (ok, new word) baseplate.

Have a look at this photo and try to understand. The photo is from an old book from user "Schmied". Thanks Schmied.

I don`t know, whats your profession. You can be a teacher, a locksmith or a politican But I can say, its easy to understand. Exeption: Its not easy to fix it! Without a joke! Any of wheels and plates and contacts have a big problem together!

Keep cool, make your best (by the way, I´ve forgotten: you can also be a bankster ) and tell us here.

Angefügtes Bild

So if I have understood it correctly, then the Abriß (meaning "demolition" according to Google Translate) is the measurement between the the coil and the magnet (in the positions shown on the drawing" at the exact moment that the contacts/breaker/points open up. Is this correct?

If so, then adjusting the timing also has an affect on the Abriß?

I'm thinking that once I have fixed the cutting out problem, then I should check the engine timing before I make any other changes to correct the Abriß.

By the way, I am a Project Manager for a bespoke furniture and interior fit-out company. Not much physics or electrics in my day job but I did study them at school.

Ok, I have translated the article and read it carefully. Is the diagram above drawn as if looking at the flywheel from behind? Like this?: